It is a good day in the cave when I get to crack open a wheel of Bay of Fires Cheddar. Carefully cutting through the tough but thin layer of cheesecloth rubbed with lard and then slowly pulling it off is like peeling the first mango of the season. It has the same sense of anticipation. The main difference is that it sends specks of cheese dust flying and fills the cave with an earthy musty smell before revealing a mottled rind imprinted with the texture of the cheesecloth.
Cutting the wheel in half leaves me with two half cylinders that smell like barn just filled with fresh hay. I cut it in half again before slicing off the point. Now the fun really begins. I get to taste it. But first I like to remind myself that this is the real thing, made by Ian Fowler who learnt the art of making cheddar from his father, who in turn learnt from his father. The knowledge has been passed, father to son from about the 1860’s when the men of the family put science to the skill and intuition of the dairy women of the farm. Ian, who brought 400 years of family cheddar making to Tasmania, makes a cheese that challenges what we expect from a cheddar. It is not sharp or crumbly like mature cheddars we know. Instead it is subtle, grassy, earthy and creamy. Each wheel I pull from the shelf is distinctly a Bay of Fires Cheddar, but has its own character reflecting its age and the season it was made. That’s the beauty of having a cave. It allows me to taste and sell cheese at different ages. As the cheese matures the flavours blend and it tastes nuttier with hints of caramel. Something you expect in Comté, rather than a cheddar. Some people like their Bay of Fires Cheddar like this, others prefer the meadow freshness of the cheese when it is about a year old. However you like it, Bay of Fires Cheddar is another great Australian cheese that draws from European tradition and blends it with quality local milk to create something unique.
0 Comments
I enjoy the look on people’s faces when ‘I have a cheese cave in my garage’ casually pops up in conversation. Sadly, it is not like the limestone caverns of Roquefort or a recommissioned train tunnel in the French countryside or an old lagering tunnel of a Brooklyn brewery. Instead it is an insulated room with a modified air conditioner, fluoro green wind sock and a humidifier. From the outside the cave looks like a cold room. While it is not traditional or hip, it is a great space to mature cheese. I know it is working because every time the door is opened I am hit by a distinctive milky musty yeasty smell that is common to all cheese caves. Inside the cave is a room of my own. One that I designed, help build and modify to get the right climate for maturing cheese. An environment that is perfect for moulds, yeasts and microbes to grow. These critters are important to help form the rind on the cheese, break down proteins and most importantly develop the flavour. The main inspiration for the cave came from what I learnt from Laurent Mons and Sue Sturman at Academie Opus Caseus in St Haon le Chatel, France. Theory is one thing, but applying it to a real project is another. The brains and skills of friends and tradies made it all happen. You all know who you are, but a special thanks goes to Geoff, Alex, Trevor, the water filter guys and the bloke who lives with my obsession and parks his car on the street. |
About the AuthorWendy studied affinage in France. Working in the Mons caves at St Haon le Chatel and many years of travelling has exposed her to cheeses from around the world. She enjoys and respects all cheeses, but her passion is Australian cheeses. Especially unique cheeses made by small producers. Archives
May 2017
Categories |